Friday, April 30, 2010

Cooking School

Chiang Mai is supposed to be the cooking class capitol of SE Asia so we thought we would give it a try one day. There was also some interest from some of the people in our trekking crew so we shopped around one-day and figured out all of our options.
We wanted the opportunity to shop for our ingredients fresh at the market in the morning and also be able to each build our own custom menus instead of having set list of dishes for the day. Some cooking schools offered multi-day classes and some offered morning or afternoon speed sessions. After shopping around, we found what we were looking for, BaanThai Cookery School. They offered a 6-course full day of cooking and within each course you had 3 different options to choose from. This school also offered the market experience, so when we showed up in the morning we all chose what dishes we wanted to cook and then made way to local market to shop for our ingredients. When we got back it was cooking time – we spent the next 6-7 hours cooking and eating some of the freshest Thai food we have ever had!

What we cooked:

Lindsay-
1) Stir fried prawn with curry powder
2) Chicken in coconut milk
3) Papaya salad
4) Green curry paste
5) Green curry with chicken
6) Mangos with sticky rice

Cory-
1) Fried cashew nut with chicken
2) hot and sour prawn soup
3) Fried fish cakes
4) Red curry paste
5) Panaeng curry with paste
6) Water chestnut in coconut milk
It was a good time! We had a blast getting creative with some of the ingredients and trying each other’s dishes!

Wednesday, April 28, 2010

Jungle Trek

After a shitty night sleep, due to the booming club behind our guesthouse, we woke up at 5am to get ready for the mysterious trek we signed up for. Not really knowing what to pack, we threw our backpacks together and headed downstairs for our big “American” breakfast (Just about every menu has a breakfast item called “American breakfast", kinda funny). After that we jumped in the back of a pick up, mexi style and headed out! After about 45 minutes of a bumpy ride we stopped at a market to pick up some food, headlamps, TP, and whatever else seemed necessary. Hopped back in our luxury vehicle and drove another hour on some pretty windy roads. The first interesting part of the drive was when the driver came to a screeching halt, jumped out of the truck, grabbed the nearest stick of bamboo and started smacking a poor little snake (actually a poor GIANT snake) that was just trying to cross the road- apparently the driver LOVES snake and saw his dinner darting across the street, obviously he has to pray on it.

We finally made it to our first destination, a whiskey e finally made it to our first destination, a whiskey distillery. It may sound like we had just arrived at some nice, indoor, air conditioned spot, but that is not how they make whiskey here in Thailand, just out in the open air, brewed in plastic garbage cans, free for all bugs and animals to come get a drink whenever they feel like it. But that sure didn’t stop us from trying a few shots of it (at 9am). Just how we like it, nice and warm! After the tasting they offered some bottles for sale at 60 baht, $2 per bottle. The samples we tried were oh so delicious - we all had to buy a bottle for the trek.

From the distillery we continued 4-wheel style off into the jungle. Now it's time to start trekking. Mr. Ton, our tour guide, handed all of us a belt with a machete and sling shot, it was up to us to hunt for some ammo aka little rocks or pebbles, so badass. For the next hour we trekked through jungle sling shot in one hand and machete in the other launching our ammo at every moving leaf, bird, branch, rock, or lizard that caught our attention. Don't worry none of us had any success... Not even close! Next thing we know there is randomly some huge piles of fresh “elephant dung” in the trail and BAM! Two huge elephants right there in the middle of the jungle that would be giving us a ride through the next couple hours of trekking. Half the people jumped on the two elephants and the other half kept walking behind. After about an hour it was our turn to jump on. There was a little bench tied on the elephant’s back (sad) that Cory and I sat on. It felt a little unstable and was quite a bit higher up than we were expecting it to be! I decided right away that this was not going to be the ride of my life, especially since we were on little, narrow, steep trails that seemed extremely unrealistic for an elephant to be tromping on. Each time the elephant would take a step Cory and I would lean from one extreme to the next. About 5 minutes in my hands were dripping in sweat, one clenching the side of the bench and the other gripping a hand full of Cory’s shorts. All I could think about was how screwed I would be if I fell off. Oh, and it didn’t help that right before we rode the elephants we watched one of them crush a whole coconut with it’s foot like it was a plastic easter egg. GREAT, imagine what it would do to someones head! At this point, Cory is laughing so hard he could barely speak. In my mind - this was no laughing matter! My plan was to leap on to the next tree the elephant squeezed past and shimmy my way down to safety. However, I didn’t want to live the next two days of trekking as the chicken so I toughed it out. The elephants took multiple breaks to either make a new river, or throw in another obstacle for our trekking experience. The elephant we were on chose to give everyone walking a little breeze…. It let out the biggest and longest toot I have ever, EVER, heard in my life. It took me a few seconds to realize what the little cutie pie was doing before I started laughing hysterically! We could not hold in our laughter if we had tried to. After that I decided the elephant ride was worth it.

The sun was setting and the crew was getting tired. I think we were all starting to wonder if we were ever going to get to the village. Our guide had been working on these bamboo croquet looking tools for quite some time and he then explained that they were our rat traps and that we would set them along the river and come back out at night to gather our rats. So at this point we knew we had to be getting close – we set the traps and kept on trekking… Next thing we knew Mr. Ton flips a log over – looked like the kind of log that they may have used back in the day as a bridge during rainy season but Mr. Ton wanted us to get it back to camp to use it as a bench! So sure enough the five dudes in the crew all manned up and carried the damn thing the rest of the way out of the jungle. When we made it out we set the log down and used our machetes to remove all of the bark – this is where Lindsay did her part (she loves picking at things). Once we made it back we installed what turned out to be a crucial part of the campfire benches considering we had 10 people on the trek. It was time to crack of a bottle of the that homemade Thai Whiskey and share some campfire stories. Turns out we got really lucky with the crew and everyone had great traveling stories and awesome adventures to add to the conversation while we passed the bottle around.

After a fare amount of whiskey and an amazing dinner we mounted up the headlamps and went back out into the jungle to see if we had caught any rats for dessert. One of the villagers came with us this time and between him and Mr. Ton they had an amazing ability to spot some crazy wildlife out there! We didn’t end up getting any rats but we had a hell of a time tromping through the wilderness in the middle of the night.

The next day was another full day of trekking through the woods only this time we were hiking along a really cool little creek with waterfalls and swimming holes all along. We stopped and had lunch at one of the swimming spots during the hottest part of the day and we all carved up some bamboo drinking cups to help pass the time. After the sun had calmed down a bit we set back out and this time it was a long haul up and over the second highest peak in all of Thailand – incredible views! The village the second night was crazy, I am not sure who had control of the place the villagers or the animals – literally hundreds (if not thousands) of chickens, pigs, dogs, cows, buffalo, roosters and cats roamed free at this place pissing and shitting all over the entire area… Not the most sanitary area we have seen while traveling - but hey, it's free fertilizer. It was kind of a rough night sleep because the roosters must have been confused and started crowing around 3AM…

Day 3: We woke up to another amazing meal and set out. Today we were heading to the river and we were going to hop on a few bamboo river rafts and float our way back to civilization. I am not sure if mentioned this earlier but when we said “non-tourist” trek we meant it – when we first signed up we figured that was probably bullshit but they were right. We did not see a single person that was not a native hill tribe villager for the entire duration of the trek! It was a short trek into the rafting village on the river followed by an awesome few hours of rafting down the river!

That pretty much wraps up the trekking experience – we both would recommend trekking to anybody that comes out to Thailand and we would do it again in a heartbeat. There were a lot of difficult and uncomfortable moments but it was one of those experiences you can look back on and really appreciate!


Tuesday, April 20, 2010

Chiang Mai

We arrived in Chiang Mai around 7:30AM from the night train, leaving us a whole day to explore the city. We had met a dude from Portland on the train named Dustin and he speaks a fair amount of Thai and said that he would be willing to show us around the city for the day. He took us to one of the guesthouses that he was familiar with which has been taking a toll on the wallet at $6 per night! Haha. After we dropped our bags we walked over to the bike shop to rent some bikes and mob around the city.

Lindsay had a blowout about 15 mins into the ride and we h
ad to find a repair shop – turns out there are about 3-4 on every block. They threw in a new tube and even replaced the worn out tire for about $2.50 in less than 20 mins! We were back on the road now and exploring the different temples of the city as well as some of the bars. This place is filled with bars, cafés, travel agents and shopping – it blows my mind that these places can all operate without putting each other out of business.

When we got back from bike riding our guest house was trying to sell us a jungle trek that was leaving at 6AM the next morning and if we wanted to go we had to decide within 15 mins because the orientation meeting was going to start at 7o-clock. So we listened to their presentation and went upstairs to decide as a group and figured since they had already sold the trip to 5 others at 6500baht we probably had some room to negotiate… We agreed that if the 4 of us (Lindsay, Cory, Debbie & Edwin) went downstairs with 4000baht in-hand they would be foolish to turn it down. When we sat down at the table Lindsay must have been fired up with some negotiation motivation because she cut loose! She told the man that we would either all buy-in as a group or none of us were going and that we had 16,000baht right now - take it or leave it. He came back with a counter offer of 18,000! Which was down from 26,000! At this point I knew that they were soft and definitely willing to budge so we let Lindsay continue. She told him that it was definitely more than we had all budgeted for trekking so we were firm at 16,000, he left the table and came back with a smile and said it's a deal! Trekking post is coming soon…

Monday, April 19, 2010

Night Train



We had decided that we had seen enough of Bangkok and that we were ready to head north to Chiang Mai to get ready for Songkrahn, the HUGE water festival that happens every year during their new year. We had three options to get north, we could either fly for about $150 each or take a bus $15 each or take a thing the night train $26. We chose the night train and loved it!

At this point the protests and demonstrations by the red shirts have started to get pretty hectic and it was near impossible to get out of the city to the train station but after about 2 hours we arrived. We walked in and the place was packed, everyone was sitting at cafeteria-style chairs facing the king that was painted on the wall. We awkwardly made our way to the snack shack trying our best not to turn our backs to the king, but probably looking very special. In Thailand it is OFFICIALLY illegal to make jokes or threats about the king, and yes, you will go to jail. So, we grabbed some snacks and hopped on the train. The 2nd class sleeper was badass it had two seats facing each other that fold into bunk beds when you’re ready – takes the man about 30 seconds to make one of the most comfortable beds that we have slept in since we left the US. Oh and by the way it had AC.

We started chatting with a couple next to us named Edwin and Debbie from Holland – quite nice people (in a Dutch accent). Then a small lady came through asking if we wanted beers – yep. Around 9:00pm our car turns into quiet time so we walk up a few cars to the “bar-car”! The thing had TV, music, cocktails, beers, locals, foreigners, and a friendly staff. We drank until they kicked us out at 11:00pm and then stumbled our way back through the different cars to find our beds and get some rest.

Happy ending?


We have been dying to get a massage since we arrived to this crazy country. Especially when they are advertising 120Baht for 60 minutes ($4) on every street corner. At first we were a little unsure how to go about it because there was a bit of a communication barrier but they told us to leave our clothes on which we thought was weird.

They slowly started to massage our feet, which felt amazing, and then worked their way up to our legs, back, and arms. They literally use their whole body in a Thai massage, hands, elbows, forearms, feet and knees to stretch and pull every muscle in the body! They will be massaging your inner thigh with their foot at one point and giving you a head massage with their hands at the same time! It was the best massage we have ever had, oh and it was $4, which made it even better! They know where all the pressure points are and use them all to relieve stress and pain. Everyone should probably just come to Thailand right now and get a massage… Our next mission is a 2-hour massage with oil- $6.

Sorry for the delay...




Backpacking is all about staying busy and having fun right? Well that is why we haven’t been able to keep you guys up to date… Our bad but we are having a good time – it won’t happen again… actually it probably will.

Oh and we haven't really had any places with reliable internet connections so that is another reason - but we are back at it and going to get a bunch of posts up that we have been working on in a word doc during long bus and train rides.


Saturday, April 3, 2010

Khao San Road


We had originally planned on cruising out to the Vietnam Embassy today to get the process rolling with our Visas but found out at breakfast that it is closed on Saturday. So we set off the explore Khao San Road instead - started on foot but we got lost... So we met a kid named Alex from England and shared a Tuk-Tuk (three-wheeled, sketch ass scooter/carriage/car) with him to find Khao San Road. Turns out we weren't too far off track and the ride was pretty short - $1 total.

At first things were a little overwhelming and it was difficult to fend off the suit tailors and the Tuk-Tuk drivers but we eventually found our way to some buckets (literally a bucket that you would use to play in the sand filled with ice, Red Bull and Thai whiskey) and the shopping began. We bought some sunglasses, a dress, finger nail clippers, a pen, and had 5 meals in about 6 hours, the food is amazing!

However, we are staying away from the meat, considering most of the stands have full on chickens (minus feathers) hanging by their necks in 90 degree weather, no thank you. But it is cool because they cook most of it right in front of you and it all tastes like little bites of heaven. It is hard to not go crazy and buy everything you see because it is so cheap AND you can bargain with them to knock off a good chunk of baht.

Not only is Khao San Road packed with people, there are also many homeless, starving, and sometimes cute dogs roaming around - that have RABBIES. Normally we see dogs and run over to pet them, but that's not the case with these puppies, we jet past them as fast as possible and hope they don't decide to tag along... There was definitely a lot to take in today, but overall it was great day!

By the way - we decided to trek home on foot and explore some of the less touristy spots like the local supermarkets etc.

P.S. I just looked at the ceiling and there is a little gecko crawling around- possibly a new pet?

Friday, April 2, 2010

Bangkok


WE MADE IT! After TWO DAYS of flying, we finally made it. The flights actually weren't to shabby, except the last one which had so much turbulence it felt like we were driving down an alley with massive amounts of pot holes in it. We left on Thursday and we arrived on Saturday.... we are still a little confused on what day is it and what time is it.... but really, what does it matter!

When we first got to the Shanti Lodge we went across the street and bought some Thai beers. They aren't as cheap as we had hoped about $1.50 for 22's. We sat at our hostel lounge and chugged beers in 82 degree weather at 3 o'clock in the AM with extreme humidity. The Shanti Lodge also provides mosquito swatting electric tennis rackets - so we stayed pretty amused while watching the locals go about their business in the middle of the night.

Until next time!

Thursday, April 1, 2010

We are off


We are heading to Bangkok today. SF>Tokyo>Bangkok - 24hrs

Talk to you soon!